7點45分起身,8八點半至9點半食早餐,之後番上樓整理行裝,本來10點10分就出發,但一出酒店門口就感到陣陣寒意……番上房換番啲保暖啲嘅衫。噚晚落咗成晚雨,今日天陰陰咁,但唔緊要啦,唔落雨已經好好架喇,加上我哋今朝係去Konzentrationslager Dachau,一個咁沉重嘅地方,陰天仲match個環境呀。
10點20分到達Munich train station,排隊買火車飛。呢個車站有一個counter係專for旅客嘅,排緊嘅時候有個男人會嚟問我哋咩事,但其實佢嘅function只係 ensure我哋排啱隊……排後面有個台灣女人突然問我哋識唔識講中文,佢睇到schedule發現去天鵝堡要轉巴士,就叫我哋幫佢問吓個男人點解,原來佢三個月已經嚟過,當時係一程火車就到Fussen,但今次要火車再巴士,所以佢想知點解,但佢英文唔好,想我哋幫佢問。嘩,三個月前先嚟過,而家又再嚟 ﹖!天鵝堡真係咁吸引﹖!
終於到我哋買飛,負責嘅staff英文好流利,我哋除咗買今日去Dachau嘅火車飛外,仲買埋聽日去Fussen嘅火車飛,佢幫我哋計出最平嘅 option,去Dachau就買one day pass (€13.6),然後Fussen就買一程嘅ticket(€28),不過原來德國火車飛單程同來回係一樣價架……因為排隊排咗好耐,最後11點先買 完……
買完飛就去搭車,我哋搭11點10分嘅火車去Dachau,11點35分就到達Dachau火車站,但要去Dachau concentration camp仲要搭多一程巴士,巴士站好容易就搵到,因為搭得嚟呢個站嘅人,大部份都係去concentration camp,唔識路只要跟住人都會去到!喺bus stop等咗一陣就有巴士喇,我哋張火車飛嘅錢已經包埋呢程巴士,所以上車唔駛再俾錢。巴士11點41分開車,12點前已經到站。
落車後,跟住人群行入去,天色開始變光。先到audioguide嘅出租地,仲有間書店,最正係有免費洗手間!因為呢到嘅展版全部都有英文version,所以我同拾爺都冇租到audioguide,自己慢慢睇就算喇。
Konzentrationslager Dachau係Hitler大權在握後首個集中營,營地好大,但根據展板所講,當時呢個集中營囚禁咗太多人,所以地方都仲係唔夠用……呢個memorial site除咗展示營房,仲有gas chamber、incinerator room、death chamber等等,想要了解更多呢段悲劇嘅歷史,可以多花時間睇展板、參觀展覽廳、甚至觀賞有關嘅電影播放。我同拾爺喺到都逗留咗兩個鐘,其實想再留耐啲,但要就番巴士同火車時間……
當年被送進concentration camp嘅人就係經呢條鐵路,搭火車入嚟……
當年被送入嚟嘅人,就係沿此路經此門進入Concentration camp……
‘Arbeit macht frei’ is a German phrase meaning “work makes (you) free”.
Appellplatz (Roll call ground)﹕The prinsoners had to assemble on the roll call ground every morning and evening for roll call. In all weather conditions, they were forced to stand to attention motionless, for about an hour. Sometimes even the dead had to be dragged to the roll call ground to be counted. If the number of prisoners on roll call did not match the official head-count, this torture could last many hours. It often happened that sick and weak prisoners collapsed during roll call. The other prisoners were forbidden to help them.
好多營房已經喺當年被美軍摧毀,所以呢個concentration camp睇落去好似好spacious,但當年應該係擠滿人同營房,展板提過當年越嚟越多人被送入嚟,遠超過呢到訂下嘅數目,所以被送入嚟嘅人成日都要幫手起營房。
Memorial site開放咗其中一個營房,我哋當然入內參觀。呢個營房主要囚禁身份特別嘅人,佢哋唔一定係Jew,只要係同Nazi作對嘅,咩國藉嘅人都有機會被捉入嚟。不過,呢啲人身份特殊,所以佢哋係被獨立囚禁, 每人一間房,甚至有囚犯嘅囚室係打通咗三間房嘅。當然,有獲優待嘅,亦有被虐待嘅。營房用展板展示只夠囚犯站立嘅囚室 (因美軍到來時已拆毀原來設計。)。
In 1944, the camp authorities installed four standing cells in each of three ordinary cells. These standing cells had a floor area of 70 x 70 cm (about 2 feet 6 inches square), which prevented prisoners from sitting or lying down. Prisoners were imprisoned here for up to 72 hours at a stretch. The torture in these cells was increased by the lack of light and air.
喺營房入面可以聽到當年被囚人仕嘅日記錄音,其中一個囚犯表示被困室內全冇日光,完全分唔到晝夜,就連自己困咗幾耐都會變得模糊。某日佢聽到有人叩牆,但佢唔敢回應,生怕係看守者嘅試探,但之後又再聽到,於是佢嘗試回應,原來係隔離囚室嘅人同佢打招呼。兩個人以每聲叩牆嘅次數代表各英文字母,就咁互相溝通, 足足用咗兩日時間先交換到名字同少許自我身份。對於我哋嚟講,呢啲簡單嘅資訊,三言兩語就可交換,佢哋卻要偷偷摸摸的利用兩日時間才可完成……我哋可能會嫌煩唔想講,但對於佢哋長期被單獨囚禁嘅人嚟講,有交談對象已經係好好架喇。
離開第一個營房,往前走,去到另一個集體囚禁嘅營房。
1. 根據展板所講,當時嘅木工手勢好好,每個位都接洽得好整齊,上圖可以睇到啲床排埋一齊後,高、闊、長度都係一模一樣架!
2. For a long time, there were insufficient beds to go round. They were packed tight together. Prisoners were sleeping head to foot.
3. No mark or spot however small dared be made in the wood for if it were seen by the Blockführer a penalty was immediately forthcoming. Crockery too must be spotlessly clean a single coffee stain overlooked would warrant an hour hanging at he stake.離開集體營房,我哋喺附近一個展覽廳睇咗好耐嘢,越知道當年被囚人仕嘅事情越多,個心就越實……繼續向前行,呢到真係好大!我想像唔到咁大嘅地方但都唔夠住嘅話,當年有幾多人喺到被每日torture……
紀念受害者
以為差唔多行完,點知……仲有另一面……
防止有人途走,又坑又鐵絲網。
原來另一端係death chamber同gas chamber!
Death chamber: This room was used to store the corpses that were brought from the prisoner camp to be cremated.
Incinerator room: Each of the floor furnaces could cremate two to three corpses at once. The ovens were connected to the chimney by an underground canal.
Execution site: Most hangings were carried out here. The victims were hanged directly in front of the burning ovens.
Gas chamber: This was the center of potential mass murder. The room was disguised as “showers” and equipped with fake shower spouts to mislead the victims and prevent them from refusing to enter the room. During a period of 15 to 20 minutes up to 150 people at a time could be suffocated to death through prussic acid poison gas (Zyklon B).
天花板上方型孔﹕Openings to a ventilator in the attic used to air out the gas chamber.
Flaps where prussic acid poison gas pellets could be inserted from the outside.
天花板上圓孔型嘅係fake shower spouts。
Top: Peephole from left corridor to look into the gas chamber.
Bottom: Water supply to clean the room after the dead had removed.
An influx of warm air from a condenser in the attic was supposed to accelerate the evaporation of the poison pellets.
Waiting room: This is where victims were to be informed on using the supposed ‘showers’.
估計為工作人員嘅通道。
Gas chamber 出面
Prussic acid poison gas就係由呢到放入室內……
行埋gas chamber,我哋就番Munich市中心喇。當時係2點10分,我哋慢慢行去bus stop,再搭2點26分嘅巴士到火車站,10分鐘後我哋已經到達火車站,但喺火車要等12分鐘先有車……由呢到番去Munich central station只需21分鐘。
行咗成朝,我倆都有少少攰,所以先番酒店抖抖,食咗噚日買嘅cherry之後,3點50分出發去下一站 — Englischer Garten。
前往Englischer Garten途中見到呢架車,車上仲有錄音播放,不過係講德文嘅,聽唔明……
Englischer Garten係一個好大嘅公園,比New York個Central Park仲要大!拾爺先帶我去睇人滑浪。
各滑浪高手 (其實唔係全部都係高手,有啲一落水就衰咗……) 好有秩序,排隊落水,衰咗就隨水漂到遠處後上番岸,再排過。睇完人滑浪,我哋就喺公園到行吓。
除咗滑浪,亦有唔少嚟到游水。雖然呢到只係有條河,但都無損大家嘅雅興。
唔游水都可以喺到曬吓太陽,不過……今日冇太陽……
同拾爺行到草地時,佢見我留意吓周圍啲人,噢!喺Nice嘅石灘我哋見到無上裝嘅嬸嬸同婆婆,喺Munich嘅Englischer Garten我哋見到全裸嘅大叔同伯伯!本來,我只見到其中一個個八月十五,點知……行到某個位,見到個正面全裸嘅男人……佢仲要對住我笑……好驚驚囉!
有人喺兩棵大樹之間拉繩玩平行。
拾爺喺網上得知呢到有個好中國式嘅建築物,但因為張city map冇標到喺Englischer Garten嘅邊個位置,想唔到我哋亂咁行,又俾我哋搵到,原來佢位處beer garden附近,而且入面仲有樂隊演奏呢,好好氣氛哦!
都唔明點解喺外國嘅花園會有個咁中國式嘅建築……
喺Englischer Garten入面嘅beer garden。
呢到有幾間賣嘢食嘅舖頭,食客拎住嘢食,就去cashier俾錢,有啲似科大個canteen。
飲完啤酒就排隊去拎番按樽錢。
行完Englischer Garten,又係時間開飯喇!行去餐廳前,拾爺帶我去咗間outlet到睇衫,佢上網睇到有人話有機會執到好嘢,名牌子都會大減價,點知……去到只係見到一間賣德國傳統服加老土到暈嘅衫……好彩,中途見到有間賣frozen yoghurt嘅舖頭,我見價錢唔貴,於是忍唔住買杯嚟做飯前甜品,叫做有所補償。(詳見i love leo)
我同拾爺都覺得坐到咁低好辛苦……
拾爺又係搵咗兩間餐廳,我哋當然係睇勻兩間,比較環境同menu啦,最後揀咗Atzinger。
行番酒店時,途經呢到最大嘅beer garden,一場嚟到,冇理由唔入去睇吓嘅。
我覺得呢到氣氛冇Englischer Garten嗰到咁好,可能因為冇樂隊演奏啦。